Adventures – Beginning to End

bobforsee@yahoo.com

In 1968 I read a story in Cycle World magazine about a fellow that rode from the U.S to the tip of South America and I was psyched to do the same. However, over 35 years passed and I hadn't taken that journey. So after retirement, I began to consider the possibilities.
For 12 years my wife and I put over 9,000 miles on our bicycles. We greatly enjoyed our two-wheeled activity, particularly the Katy Trail which covers over 200 miles across Missouri. However when it comes to adding a motor to the two wheels, I'm all alone. Brenda doesn't feel the same comfort on a motorcycle that she feels on her bike.
Beginning with that first Honda I bought in 1966 (only 160cc) I have always enjoyed the feeling of adventure that motorcycling gives you. In the 60's I traveled a number of times by motorcycle including two trips to the Rocky Mountains, once to New Orleans and once to Los Angeles.

In early November of 2006 after spending a year of planning and trying to digest a bit of spanish, I joined Harold Brooks and we traveled through five Latin American countries totaling 4200 miles.

In 2008 I flew to Buenos Aires where I had arranged to rent a Honda Transalp and headed north through Argentina, Chile and Peru. The ride to see Machu Picchu in the Andes totaled over 5100 miles.

In 2013 I planned a ride from Jo' Burg, South Africa to Victoria Falls. The trip through Botswana, Zimbabwe and back to South Africa was wonderful. The Falls were amazing, but seeing elephants and other big game while traveling down the highway was a treat.

I've got the bug to do another ride in 2015. Not so much an adventure, but none-the-less exciting. I joined nine other riders for to do a tour. Adriatic Moto Tours provided guides and bikes and our group traveled for eight days from Vienna to Prague in the Czech Republic and South to Salzburg and then back to Vienna. I arranged to continue on with the bike and travel on my own. I rode into Hungary to Budapest, spent an additional day there, and then South past lake Balaton and returned the bike to the tour company in Ljubljana, Slovenia. This ride provided many amazing sights with the Alps and beautiful land of Austria and the Czech Republic being among the most memorable. For my final ride I traveled from Saigon to Hanoi, Viet Nam in 2018. All together I was able to experience 14,125 miles of amazing countries.

 

PREPARATION 

In preparing for each of my trips I found a great deal of information on Horizons Unlimited web site. This amazing site has journals, health info and active bulletin boards that allow for contact with other travelers. http://www.horizonsunlimited.com

Blogs on each of the first four adventures are at the top of the right column

2006
In 2006 I began working on beginning Spanish on-line (it doesn't seem that any of the two semesters that I had in college was still with me). After the '06 trip to Panama, I continued to work on my Spanish and daily gym routine, losing a few more pounds.

2008
Once again I used Horizons Unlimited to research and make contact with a rental firm in B.A to secure a Honda TransAlp bike for the trip.

2013
Bike rental was arranged with "Edge" tour company in Cape Town to pick up a bike in Jo' Burg and ride North. Getting used to riding on the left side of the road was a challenge

2015
Too many languages to be concerned about learning all the necessary phrases. I adjusted to the Suzuki V-Strom (650) and tried to follow the groups set of rules for riding together (lots of different signals for navigating small towns and intersection turns).

For this ride I did accomplish the impossible. I lost just over 40 lbs and began a DAILY gym routine. Looking back, I believe this really contributed to making this a very enjoyable ride.

2018
In late 2017, I began researching for a trip to Vietnam. I think the biggest concern was the the three million motorbikes in Ho Chi Min City (Saigon) and of course. . . the language.

Beginning in March 2018, at age 74, I completed a three week adventure covering approximately 1800 miles, traveling from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi Vietnam. I have a separate website for this ride.   

Link to this ride :  http://forsellini2017.blogspot.com/

My four other adventures, beginning in 2006, are archived on the right.

After the Vietnam trip in 2018, my health went South. A by-pass and other issues have convinced me to sell my bike and stop dreaming of adventures.  My five rides included Central America, South America, Africa, Eastern Europe and Vietnam (links to those travels are in the right column). 

I have lots of memories to keep me company in my less active life. For those considering travel adventures, go for it! You won't be sorry. Bob 

Eastern Europe 2015

I will join Adriatic Moto Tours and start and finish in Vienna and then continue with a solo tour from Vienna to Budapest and return bike to Ljubljana, Slovenia

I arranged to fly to Vienna, Austria and arrive on July 4. I rented a 650 Suzuki V-Strom (which is the same bike that Harold Brooks rode on my first adventure to Panama). Although all of the other riders were on BMW's, I found the V-strom to be more than enough for the alps. I on the other hand wasn't so fond of the great many very tight hairpins (switchbacks). I guess at 71, I'm just getting conservative (and slow). The 40 lbs I lost in preparing for this trip was a real benefit overall but not with the hairpins!

Olomuc, Prague, Cesky Krumlov, Salzburg and Vienna should offer some amazing experiences. Riding the Austrian Alps alone should make the tour special. The ride to Budapest is only150 miles which will give me time to sightsee and arrange a day tour for the additional day I will spend there.

From Budapest, I will ride south to Ptuj, a small town a short distance into Slovenia, and finish my 14 days by returning the Suzuki to the tour company in Ljubljana, Slovenia. The approximately 1650 miles will be the shortest of my adventures but hopefully the experience will rival the other outings.

Vienna and Olomouc

Arrival in Eastern Europe

Day 1
Arrival in Vienna, Austria.

I arrived in Vienna from Paris via Air France only to discover that my checked bag (the one with helmet, camera, gloves, rainwear and other clothing, was still in Paris).  You can't do this tour without a helmet so I was immediately desperate.  With the help of our hotel staff, calls were made to Air France and it was agreed that the best option was to have the bag forwarded to Prague.  This meant going with out my stuff for two days.  I was lucky to find that Adriatic Tours had an extra helmet (which they normally don't bring with them) and at least I was able to start the ride.

The ride from Vienna north to the Czech Republic was beautiful.  Except for the heat, it was a great day. The farm land and small towns are so well kept as to be totally amazing.  No brush and weeds by the road-side, freshly painted houses and litter free.  Very beautiful.

Day 2 
Vienna to Olomouc

Today we rode north through the Austrian countryside. Beautiful! Pristine and enjoyable even in the unseasonable heat (low 90's). Our group of 10 riders and two tour guides, Niko and Luka, began the tour without problems.

Eventually we entered the Czech Republic. The first night we stayed in Olomouc. Meal time as well as the morning stops for coffee were great. The group seemed to bond well and the guides were terrific. Niko, the leader, knew just where to stop along the way and which restaurants would provide great food.

Our group consisted of two couple from Florida, a couple from Brazil, a fellow from New Jersey, and a wonderful young couple from California.  The young couple were celebrating their honeymoon.

Olomouc & Prague

Day 3  took us thru Bohemia, passing through small towns. We stopped in Kutna Hora to visit their Ossuary Chapel of All Saints.  The bones of over 40,000 individuals have been preserved over the centuries and are displayed below the chapel.  Pretty amazing!

Day 4 – A rest day.  We arrived in Prague and had a great evening meal.  The next day we the day we toured Old Prague and wandered around Prague Castle.

Pictured below:  Sandra and Nick on the left with Niko below.

Prague to Cesky Krumlov

Day 5 we Left Prague riding south into Central Bohemia (and I now have my own helmet, rain gear, camera and other stuff). Bohemia has numerous castles and old towns each of which are amazingly well kept and pristine. 

When clouds began to sprinkle, we pulled off the road to put on our rain-wear.  I had just finished the struggle to pull on my extra large pants when I hear a commotion.  The Brazilian lady was on the ground and in great pain.  She had just gotten her rain gear on when her newly replaced hip (March) managed to pop completely out of the socket!  OMG!  Our guides were cool and called for an ambulance.  All of us, except for Niko and the lady's husband, continued on to Cesky Krumlov.

We eventually meet and ride alongside the meandering Vltava River. By late afternoon, we pull into the town of Cesky Krumlov, a World Heritage Site, where the majority of buildings are designated cultural monuments. From my stand-point, this may have been the best place yet.  

bottom two photos
from internet
Internet Photos

Cesky Krumlov to Salzburg

Day 6 – Leaving the Czech Republic we pass into Austria once again. The Salzkammergut is an area known for its tall pointed peaks and picture-perfect lakes. It provided for great riding on twisty roads over high passes. Unfortunately, I've discovered that what little skill I used to have in dealing with mountain twisties, and switchbacks, I no longer have.  I tried not to be concerned about riding so slowly (not wanting the other riders to be slowed) but the hairpin turns really got to me.  Thank God there was little traffic (mostly bicyclists and motor bikers).  The Alps were breathtaking.  Truly beautiful.

The two photos below are Internet Photos.  Even though I now have my camera, sadly it began to malfunction. (maybe too much vibration?

Salzburg and its castle.  Many only know of this beautiful city in connection with the movie "Sound of Music".  Our evening tour of the central old city was wonderful.

Salzburg to Deutchlandsberg

Today ride included some of the highest mountains in the Alps and definitely the highest mountains in Austria. Riding the challenging mountain twisties once again gave me fits. Late afternoon we reach a 16th century hilltop castle in Deutchlandsberg.

Riding in the Alps was a mixed blessing for me.  I've gotten too old for all of those "switchbacks" which were on narrow roads in often dense forest.  I rode so slow that I worried that I was holding up the others.  It was not like riding solo.  The beauty of the Alps was amazing!  
.

Bottom two pictures are

Internet photos

Deutchlandsberg to Vienna

Day 8– We returned to Vienna and had a last dinner together. I had arranged to spend the following day in Vienna and do a tour of the city with a boat ride on the Danube.  

Internet Photo (left)

Vienna to Budapest

 I rode an easy 150 miles to Budapest via a freeway.  Fortunately my GPS delivered me to my hotel door.  With over two million in the city proper, I would have undoubtedly gotten lost with just a map to follow. 

Day 11– I arranged to do a city tour which wasn't all that great but did impress me with the Budapest Parliament (the largest such structure in the world).  The city is both very old and very new like Vienna and Prague.  The Danube runs thru the heart of the old city.

 

Bottom four pics are Internet photos

Budapest to Ptuj, Slovenia

Day 12– I rode south thru Hungary on my way to return the bike to Ljubljana in Slovenia. My stop for the night would be in Ptuj, Slovenia (a small, but very ancient,  town with a castle). 

Lake Balaton (48 miles long) provided for some amazingly beautiful views as my route took me down the North side.  This was a very relaxing ride and having started early from Budapest I was passing Balaton mid morning.

The following pictures are from the Internet

My GPS (as I was traveling in a rural area of Slovenia) told me to turn left in 300 meters. As there was only 3-4 buildings and one road to be seen (just on the left) I obeyed.  The good ol' GPS had gotten me to my Budapest hotel without any problems so I had great faith in the device.  I turned left as it said to do and then, in a few hundred yards, it said to turn left again. The first section was a very narrow blacktop and the next left was a gravel road going into a wooded section. I opted to ignore this left turn and continued a short distance when the road I was on became dirt! 

At this point, I decided to go back out to the main highway and check to see if I heard the first left command correct.  Yep, once again as I neared the buildings with the left turn the voice said in 300 yards turn left.  Of course it again told me to turn left on the gravel road. Against my better judgement I took it. In about 200 yards I could see a building and a paved road. Unfortunately, in the middle of this wooded area I found a "Croatian border crossing"!!!! They looked at my passport and told me I had to go back. So much for total reliance on a GPS.

At this point I assumed I had not heard the GPS correctly so I backtracked 5 miles or so to try again. Clearly at this point I could see on the GPS that I was on the marked route programmed by Adriatic.


Once again as I approached that "left" it said in 300 meters turn left and then turn left again! I didn't freak but the next thing to it. I've been lost so many times on my other trips that I knew it was time to start asking directions. I was on my way to PTUJ (Slovenia) and some people didn't know of this town - while others sort-of. . . a Slovenian cop gave me the best directions but all together I wasted about an hour and one-half before finding Ptuj.


Ptuj was a wonderful town. Of course this little town of 1700 did have a castle. It must be a requirement for old towns. Adriatic doesn't want to believe that the GPS was programmed wrong but I'm not convinced. Trying twice with the same results. . .
It turned out that everything about Ptuj was enchanting! The hotel I stayed in was built in 1518 and most of ring of hillside buildings appeared to be of similar vintage.

Bottom pic is an Internet photos

Arriving in Ljubljana

Day 13– Leaving Ptuj, I was tempted to take a direct route to Ljubljana (less that four hours) but I went with the route on the GPS that Adriatic had prepared.  It was another beautiful ride thru the Alps (along with the dreaded hairpin switchbacks).  At least riding solo, I  felt good about stopping when ever I wanted.  I pulled over for a few photo opts.  It was hot but not as hot as the first days riding in the Alps.

I arrived in Ljubljana to return the bike to Adriatic MotoTours only after another day of unbelievable Alps.  Those dreaded switchbacks and twisties was an unwanted finish to my trip.

Following two photos from the Internet 

Preparation for the Dark Continent

click to enlarge map

A Taste of Africa
Although the Africa trip in many ways required the same preparation as my other two adventures, it had been over four years and I needed a lot of refreshment in covering the necessary bases. Starting the planning six months before departure seemed like ample time. However I discovered that a couple of key sites were already booked. This was not a factor in the other journeys. 

 I found a source for motorbike rental in Johannesburg and narrowed down my time frame to May 22 through June 7. Knowing where the bike would be picked up, I charted a rough itinerary which would take me north through South Africa, into Botswana then East to Victoria Falls. From there I would return South through Zimbabwe and back into South Africa toward the Drakensburg mountains and finally to Johannesburg for the flight home. 15 days and lots of amazing sights should be in store with this plan. Chobe National Park was full up for this time of year and the chances were slim in getting a game drive and accommodations at the Makgadagadi Pans in Botswana as well to say nothing of lodging at Vic Falls.

So to start with, I seem to need help. Fortunately, the company that was providing the moto also helps organize tours. I was offered assistance in planning and booking the middle part of my trip which would get me accomodations and activities that tour companies are privy to. This would leave me to plan the initial three days and the last five days of my trip.  

The basics
Routes: Using Google maps, I made large prints of the key routes and cities that I would be traveling thru. (note: riding on the LEFT side of the road. . . Oh boy!)

Information: The Internet provides a lot of details on even the remote places on the globe. Political, geographical, and social information to enhance the journey. Besides important facts and key points that a visitor would need to know, there is an abundance of trivia such as: There are about 180,000 elephants in Botswana!

Language: Unlike my trips thru Latin America, it should be relatively easy to find English speakers in Africa. There are multiple languages spoken but apparently English is second or third most common.

Currency: Dollars were commonly preferred in the countries that I visited. This was much easier than other travels. Also I obtained a AAA travel debit card as they offer members the best deal on having the protection of VISA Cirrus which is considered the best card for ATM’s.  

Health: Yep, again I needed antimalarials. In checking my international health card (required in some places) I find that all of my 2006 vaccinations are still good but I needed a “booster” for Typhoid. I also got a script for Malarone (antimalarial). I got emergency medical insurance and trip insurance from AAA which is also required by some places as is an International Drivers License (which I already have)

How much and what to take: Packing a bike is something of an art. Longer trips require more creativity. Especially if you are flying to your start point. This year I have added "C-Pap" to my health needs, adding it to the otherwise over-packed suitcases. I began early practice filling and emptying bags to see whats possible. 

Paperwork: Besides drivers license, medical papers, maps, emergency contacts at home and in S.A, Passport, copies of everything, I be given upon leaving Jo’burg, papers for the bike and for crossing borders.

Now let's see. . . what did I forget?