Cusco to Puno (Lake Titicaca)
Sadly, I had to endure the grotesk city of Juliaca in order to get a short distance south to Puno. Just getting thru the horridly confusing and congested streets was exhausting. The Drivers were as bad as any I had found on the trip so far. Finally at Puno I've checked in at an inexpensive hotel for two days in order to take a tour to the "floating islands of the Uros". For more info on Titicaca
I'm still amazed at the difference between Peru and the other two countries I've crossed. Filling stations that only offer gas (no “super” only 84 octane) and many small towns that don't appear to have restaurants or stores. I can only imagine that they may have them but to the passer-by they are invisible. Unlike the large cities which capitalize on tourist, small towns apparently have a life of their own.
click on photos to enlargeDay 14 (Oct. 17)
Lake Titicaca
The Presidente hotel (fancy name for 13.00 per night) offers tours and this morning I'm going to the floating islands. Although most people probably never heard of Lake Titicaca, It's history is quite interesting. The sheer size of it without rivers contributing and being 12,500 feet elevation is worthy of awe. For those of you that have been to Colorado's "trail ridge road", The altitudes are similar.Some of the 44 floating islands are primarily tourist attractions. Islands not pictured and could be seen from a distance had tin roofs and some had solar panels. Fishing, which is a primary meaning of subsistence, is now aided by some use of motor boats.
The tour was not the best but was educational and actually walking on the reeds that compose the islands body (approx. 2 meters thick) was unlike anything else. For those unfamiliar with Titicaca, it is large enough that decades ago Peru commissioned full size freighters to be carted piece by piece overland to be assembled for commerce. During the tour boat ride out to the islands our boat began to have trouble and for a short time quit running. I had the thought that how could I be on a train that quit on the way to Aquas Caliente and then be on a boat that quits in the middle of Lake Titicaca. Hmmmmm.
Day 15 (Oct. 18)
Puno to Moquegua
I took a different route returning to Chile and rode for about 70 miles trailing Titicaca's shore. Quite magnificent. The next 180 miles froze my butt in the high Andes as I turned west toward Moquegua. I'd seen many, many alpacca and llama in recent days but today was a feast. Apparently this particular part of the Andes really support the critters and there were hundreds.
This day was very intense as I had filled up with gas early that morning stupidly believing that one of the towns showing on my map would surely have gas. Of course there was no gas in those towns and with 40/50 kilometers to go to reach the city of Moquegua, my gauge was on empty. I had passed only a few vehicles so when I saw a small SUV pulled over by the side of the road, I pulled up to it. I asked if the man had gas and he said no and pointed in the direction I was going. I was now seriously worried about at the prospect of being stuck in the Andes out of gas. I continued for a kilometer or two and saw what might be called a village with only three or four buildings (huts). There were three men standing near the road talking and as I neared them I passed a woman sitting by the road and close to one of the small houses. I asked the men if there was gas nearby and they pointed at the woman. Huh? I turned around and rode back about twenty yards to the lady. Yes, she had gas! She went into a very small shed beside the small house and returned with a bucket of gasoline. Wow, was I lucky!
After arriving in Moquegua I found the same hotel I had stayed at before. I heard festivities and went to see. It was the "mother of all kid's parades". Evidently Moquegua hosts a parade featuring elementary school kids in ethnic costumes from all over Peru. One group was from Lima a few hundred miles to the north. I don't know how many groups there were, but I'm guessing 20 cities with different grades participating. Unlike many towns that have dogs barking all night, it was firecrackers or gun shots in the early morning hours in Moquegua. And strange that both times staying here it was the same loud bangs to wake you up.
(below) 1. Puno city center. Hectic traffic and lots of tourists.
2&3. Views of Uros floating islands
