From: Siguatepeque to: Condega, Nicaragua
Instead of talking about the roads and the border nonsense or arriving in Nicaragua on an election day with a U.S. issue at stake, I think I'll first focus on the "Brown Highways". I promise not to try competing with William Trogden (Blue Highways).
In Central America you travel down black-tops like those in the U.S at speeds averaging around 60-65 (of course some much faster). You will on any given day see handsome brown skinned men, women and sometimes children on the side of the road. Most roads don't have much of a shoulder. On week days we see adults carrying wood or other things while some attend to a cow or horse. Others are simply walking. To where, isn't clear. Frequently we see people miles from a town or visable village. Many times an individual may be just sitting . On the weekend its even browner. Mothers and their kids, children on bicycles and an assortment of individuals walk along side the roads. Harold and I have seen kids as young as around four walking somewhere (unattended). Sometimes large groups are common, we have seen a few. As you would expect, the closer to a town the more people are on the road-side. But even in the mountains where you wouldn't expect anyone there, walkers are in great quantities.
Our stay in Condega was a bit tense. It was election day in Nicaraga and this small town was somewhat surreal. There was a loudspeaker with speech making going on well into the night. The owner of the hostel confided in us that he was worried that the pro-sandinista candidate (an anti-American group) might win the election. The sandinistas when previously in power were known to take property away from business people.
Day 15
From: Condega to: Liberia, Costa Rica
Two note worthy items today: first we rode easily to the Costa Rica border and found the most incredible mess of back and forth between checking out and checking in. Normally it seems that there are two processes in checking out of a country (one for the person and one for the vehicle) also two processes checking into a country. Not so with Costa Rica. Besides a stop (and a charge) to have our vehicles "fumigated" I stopped counting at six additional offices. A whole industry has developed at these borders. It took over two hours to get thru it with the help. Imagine how long it would have taken otherwise. . . no don't. About midway between the border and Liberia in a low mountain area we passed a bicyclist laden for long distance. Shortly after we pulled over to put on our rain gear and it was starting to fall. The cyclist caught up and we spoke for a few minutes. I didn't catch his name but he was from the Czech Republic (sp). He's been riding for three months heading for Ushuaia. He started in Anchorage and is averaging 2000 miles a month. Wow.
1. View of interior of hostel showing center courtyard with plants and washbasin.
2. Harold visits with the English speaking owner of the hostel.
