Day 11 - May 31
Very uneventful stretch of Zimbabwe with classic Africian huts and few animals except for lots of cows. I've found that at every stop, people are interested in talking. Their English is mostly good and the majority just like to visit with some, expressing the dismal economic situation in Zimbabwe,
Day 12 - June 1
Bulawayo to Louis Trichardt, South Africa
After an expensive overnight in a “Holiday Inn”, I left Bulawayo and once again encountered a horrendous border crossing at Beit Bridge. A poser inside the customs office took my papers and asked for 30.00 for the bridge crossing fee. As soon as he gave me my change I went over to my bike and another border crosser, who was standing outside the office approached. He told me that I had been had. That there was no fee reguired! Angry, I went inside the customs office and the only person there was a woman who simply asked me if I got a reciept for the 30.00. Wow! The only thing I can imagine is the colusion between the two. Oh well. On to Louis Trichardt a mid-size town i
n South African.
Day 13 - June 3
Louis Trichardt to Middelburg
Continuing South, it was a beautiful ride thru mountains and farm land. Except for a section of new road construction, the pavement was good. As in Central America, the mountain area was slowed to a snail pace with lots of big trucks chugging along.
Tired by the time I arrived at Middelburg, a rather large city, I managed to spend an hour driving around looking for a guest house. Guest houses, common in many cities, are gated / fenced compounds with a numer of small building with rooms in each building. Occasionally there may be a larger hotel like structure with several rooms. Most Guest houses, like lodges or hotels, offer breakfast and some have dinner as well. It’s getting cold now in S.A as June is the start of their winter.
A small note: I really haven’t seen many animals the last two days but as I was enjoying the mountain areas today, suddenly a small troupe of baboons were beside the road. They clearly are smart enough not to cross when they hear vehicles. They sit right on the right an watch you pass. (It’s donkeys and goats that are unpredictable)
Day 14 - June 4
Middelburg to Lady Smith
I was told to expect colder temperatures. O.K. but no one said anything about the strong winds! The scenery was similar to our Southwest only with coal mining added to the mix of farms and mountains. I found a great little guest house in Lady Smith and I’ve decided to stay an extra day and perhaps venture out into the surrounding countryside. The Drakensberg mountains are in the distance but I doubt that I’ll go that far.
Day 15 - June 5
Lady Smith
Beside catching up with e-mails at an Internet cafe, I spent some time in the downtown shopping district was quite interesting. For such a small town (I was told about 20,000), the architecture of the upscale shops was interesting.
Day 16 - June 6
Lady Smith to Centurion
South Africa in this southern area is clearly inhabited by more Africaaners and a strong mix of middle easterners. Blacks apparently make up only about 60 percent here compared to nearly 80 percent in the Northern S.A, Botswana and Zimbabwe..
I reached Centurion (without GPS) and promptly got totally lost. I wasn’t even in Centurion for a while. Finally a tow truck driver helped straighten me out (I was still bout 24 Kilometers from my destination). Johannesburg/Pretoria and adjacent areas like Centurion cover a vast area and number several million in population. I would guess more than St.Louis and Kansas City put together!
The Motorrad guys were happy to see me (and happier to see the bike in one piece). I really liked these guys and they certainly came through for me. I’m now off to my hotel and wait for my Friday flight home.
(above) is an Aussie schoolteacher staying in at the same lodge that I was at while waiting for my flight home.
